Written by/Qianli Chitu Horse (Crescent)
Cycling in the Caucasus + Turkey Day 19 【Leisure Time by Lake Sevan, Fresh Fish Feast and Mountain Comfort】
On August 30, at 7:30 AM, the temperature was 12°C. Wearing cycling clothes and quick-dry underwear was just right, and my body temperature would gradually rise while cycling. The plan was to cycle towards Dilijan, but I still remembered the white salmon from yesterday. The old man said he would come again tomorrow, and we all agreed to continue eating big fish and change our cycling route nearby.
We cycled towards the mountain top’s transmission tower, visiting the mountain families along the way. Surprisingly, the road planning at the town’s mountain top was very orderly, with various signboards complete. Armenia not only has excellent road conditions but also very good infrastructure. Locals greet each other when traveling and actively yield to pedestrians (only children often ride in front of their homes here).
The branches in front of the house were bustling with activity, with red, purple, green, and yellow fruits densely hanging from the branches. Every household was wrapped in this bountiful harvest scene, making people feel delighted.
The persimmons were still green.
The apples on the branches were a mix of green and red, still in the growth stage, with insufficient sugar accumulation, showing obvious greenness.
The red pears on the branches were not yet fully ripe, tightly clustered, and heavy on the branches. Once ripe, they will surely be sweet and juicy.
The yellow plums were fully ripe, easily breakable. A bite was sweet, but the skin was sour.
The purple plums were basically ripe, sweet and sour.
The red plums were very delicious when ripe, and they were everywhere.
The local residents warmly greeted us in English, telling us that his son was studying in Beijing. He likes China.
Even though the apples and pears were still a bit green and not fully ripe, he immediately picked them and gave them to us. This sincere gesture was touching, and we happily accepted them.
Cattle, sheep, and horses grazed together. Each had a tag on its ear, indicating it was certified after quarantine.
The free-range pork in Sevan town costs 56 RMB per kilogram. The pigs here are not large, and the meat looks firm, so it should taste quite good.
Potatoes are being grown. Each household does not plant vegetables, only trees, maintaining an original ecological state.
The fruits are very appealing, and we stopped to take photos.
This church is primarily made of reddish-brown stone, giving it a warm and heavy overall tone. It has a circular dome, with a cross standing tall above it, showcasing the solemnity of religion. The walls are made of regular stone blocks, with some areas featuring exquisite decorative carvings, such as crosses with intricate patterns, reflecting Armenia’s unique religious art characteristics. The windows of the church are also distinctive, some being narrow and elongated, while others have stained glass, ensuring light while adding a sacred atmosphere, giving an overall ancient and solemn feeling, carrying Armenia’s religious culture and historical heritage.
Life here is leisurely and comfortable, very suitable for health preservation. A foreign cycling friend has been vacationing here for a month. The local prices are not high, completely within an acceptable range, especially the fish stall we stumbled upon yesterday, which allowed us to feast. Today, we specifically waited at the stall in advance, and in less than half an hour, the unique fresh fish from Lake Sevan—the white frog fish—was delivered. A local bought five large fish on the spot, and we each bought four as well, for 1000 drams (about 20 RMB) we could buy four, each weighing at least over a pound. Research shows that the white frog fish takes three years to grow half a pound, making such fresh goods quite rare.
A sister selling spices was very enthusiastic, insisting on giving Sister Zhou the special seasoning for stewing fish, and Sister Zhou also returned the favor with jujubes, exchanging warmth.
We also bought the Armenian specialty intangible cultural heritage food—thin baked bread “lavash” to add flavor to this fish feast.
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Back at the guesthouse, everyone immediately got busy: cleaning the fish, marinating with spices, and putting it in the oven to bake.
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The two brothers stewed the big fish.
Sister Zhou added eggplant and tomatoes to stew the fish soup.
I prefer steamed fish; only very fresh fish can be steamed.
Armenian red wine paired with steamed fish is perfect.
Two large baking trays couldn’t fit; we had to wait for everyone to finish baking before we could start. Marinating in progress.
Look at the product of my first baking; does it count as a success?
At 5 PM, we cycled to the shores of Lake Sevan. Many people were swimming in the water, and looking at the clear lake water made me want to jump in and swim. Standing by the lake, gazing at the distant mountains, with a gentle breeze brushing my face, it was very pleasant.
On the way back, watching the cattle, sheep, and horses galloping freely on the grass, we also relaxed and jumped joyfully. Such a life is truly beautiful to the heart!
Cycling in the Caucasus + Turkey Day 20 【Cycling 70 kilometers, crossing from 11°C to 38°C: The Fragrance and Warmth of Fruits on the Road to Yerevan】
——Qianli Chitu Horse (Crescent)
On August 31, the weather was clear.
I got up at five in the morning, preparing breakfast, washing up, and packing my bags—today’s goal was clear, heading to the capital of Armenia, Yerevan. I had already checked the route yesterday and scouted it in advance; the total distance was less than 70 kilometers. Although the distance was short, it was full of expectations. As soon as it was dawn, I began the final preparations: cleaning the place where we stayed thoroughly, after all, every stop had been our temporary “home”; finally, I picked up the garbage bag and threw it in the trash can, leaving no trace.
At around six, with the morning light, I stepped onto the U4M4 highway. The morning temperature was only 11°C. Even though I wore quick-dry thermal clothing and cycling clothes, I added a quick-dry jacket on top, but my half-finger cycling gloves couldn’t block the cold, and my fingertips were frozen and tingling.
U4 is the highway, and M4 is the side road. The two routes coexist.
The cold weather made me not want to stop; whether uphill or downhill, I had to keep pedaling to warm up. The warmth in high-altitude areas comes late, and it won’t feel comfortable until around 11 AM. I didn’t even have time to take pictures of the scenery along the way. Until the fruit trees by the roadside caught my eye: branches laden with red and yellow plums, which would roll off with a gentle touch, and the ground was also covered with fallen fruit; green and half-green half-red apples seemed to be “waving” at the roadside, hoping I would stop—if only they knew that in the cold weather, I had no thirst or desire to eat fruit.
About halfway through the journey, I finally stopped to pick some fruits to taste. The most common fruits on the road were plums and apples, and unexpectedly, I also saw ripe sea buckthorn and black goji berries, just picking a few to taste.
Sea buckthorn fruit.
The ripe black goji berries are really sweet.
As the altitude dropped significantly, the weather suddenly became hot, and the clothes I was wearing instantly became inappropriate—the temperature soared from 11°C in the morning to 35°C.
At noon, when I reached Victory Square in Yerevan, I felt hot all over. While checking the route, I met a local enthusiastic cyclist who offered to guide us around the square to familiarize ourselves with the route. There was a place suitable for resting and eating in a corner of the amusement park next to the square. The owner not only allowed us to rest there but also proactively offered us water, making me truly feel the warmth of Yerevan.
Originally, I had agreed with the guesthouse owner to arrive at 2 PM, but there were still nearly 8 kilometers to go. However, this stretch of road was congested with traffic, frequent red lights, and the overpasses crisscrossed with steep gradients, so I could only speed up to reach my destination. After rushing and slowing down, I finally arrived at the guesthouse right at 2 PM.
The guesthouse was well-equipped, clean, and tidy, with a total accommodation fee of about 175 RMB for three days, which comes to only 58 RMB per day, offering excellent value for money, and marking a perfect end to today’s cycling.