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The Hong Kong Polytechnic University plans to utilize some discarded electronic waste to create an educational 3D printer. Since the materials are sourced from electronic waste, the production cost can be significantly reduced. The creator named this printer “Curiosity”. Let’s take a look at how this printer is made, and you can also follow this method to obtain your very first 3D printer!
Step 1: Preparation
The main components of “Curiosity” are sourced from electronic waste, including an old DVD drive and a computer power supply. The total cost of the project is under $150, and once this project can be scaled up, the cost of a single 3D printer could be compressed to $100!
Note: This project is also a charity initiative. Assembly kits can be purchased on HKbay, and the profits will help underprivileged children gain access to maker education.
Required Tools:
Hex key: including two sizes of ball-end wrenches (2.5mm and 2.0mm) and hex wrenches (1.5mm and 3.0mm).
Hot glue gun
Soldering iron
Utility knife
Needle-nose pliers
Screwdriver
Millimeter precision ruler
Digital caliper
8mm to 10mm wrench
4mm electric drill or Dremel
Tweezers
UHU glue
Marking tape
Multimeter
Materials:
Recycled electronic waste
2 old DVD drives
Floppy disk drive
PC power supply
Wires
3D printing components:
Structural frame
Heating head holder
Electronic components:
Arduino Mega
Ramps board
4 Pololu Motor Shields
USB cable
1.75mm all-metal extruder with PTFE tube and copper fittings
Nema 17 stepper motor
with 0.4mm heating nozzle, 100K thermistor, and cooling fan components
Step 2: Preparing the DVD Drives
Disassemble the two DVD drives. Because there are many types of drives, the specific disassembly process may vary, but it can generally be completed as follows:
1. Remove the top panel of the DVD drive case;
2. Remove the circuit board and cut the flat cable;
3. Remove the side and front panels of the drive;
4. Separate the metal frame (which holds the stepper motor, DVD rotation motor, laser head, and circuit board);
5. Remove the DVD rotation motor and circuit board from the laser head, and detach excess wiring.
As shown in the picture, there is no need to remove the stepper motor. Additionally, keep all the shock-absorbing rubber from above. Disassemble both DVD drives in the same way.
Step 3: Preparing the Floppy Disk Drive
Similar to above, floppy disk drives also differ, but the general steps are as follows:
1. Remove the top panel of the floppy disk case;
2. Remove the circuit board and detach the flat ribbon cable;
3. Remove the top panel and metal frame;
4. Separate the metal frame (which holds the stepper motor and read/write head);
5. Remove excess parts, leaving only what can secure the stepper motor and read/write head, while making the whole assembly lighter.
Also, ensure that your stepper motor has 4 connection ports, as shown in the picture (the stepper motor does not need to be removed). If there are only two connections, it may just be a DC motor.
Use a multimeter to find the pairs A+/A- and B+/B-; the resistance between each pair should be about 15Ω. If you measure an infinite resistance, they may not be a pair. The positive and negative between each pair do not need to be distinguished. Next, solder the jumpers to the following:
Pin 1 -> A+ or B+
Pin 2 -> A- or B-
Pin 3 -> B+ or A+
Pin 4 -> B- or A-
Step 4: Installing the Structural Frame
The frame is made from laser-cut wood panels, which helps maintain the accuracy of the device. After simple assembly, there is no need to rush to install screws.
Step 5: Installing the Extruder
A metal extruder kit is required, which you may need to purchase separately. This component is responsible for pushing the 3D printing material.
Install the extruder onto the motor shaft and keep it secured.
Step 6: Assembling the X and Z Axis Motors
The X-axis drive uses the DVD drive, while the Z-axis uses the floppy disk drive.
Align the X and Z axes; the Z-axis motor must be fixed vertically on top of the X-axis. The connecting part between the two motors requires hot glue. Ensure that the floppy drive motor can pass under the DVD drive motor, and that both motors do not encounter any obstruction during movement along the entire axis. Be careful not to apply hot glue to any movable parts.
Step 7: Installing the Print Bed and Y Axis Motor
The Y-axis motor uses the DVD drive motor.
Install the print bed at the center of the DVD drive, ensuring that the bed does not contact the motor, and that no side of the bed exceeds the range of the DVD drive.
Step 8: Installing the Heating Head
Install the heating head onto the read/write head of the floppy disk drive. Here, a 3D printed holder is used, secured with screws removed from the DVD.
Step 9: Preparing to Install the DVD Drives on the Frame
Mark the positions for the X/Z drives on the wood, make a mark in the center, and drill holes at the appropriate locations;
Mark the position for the Y drive, make a mark on the frame base, and drill holes accordingly.
Step 10: Installing the Motors on the Frame
First, use 4 M4x20 screws to install the previously prepared X/Z axis onto the top frame of the 3D printer. Note that when installing this structure, a nut or some washers should be added to the screws.
Next, install the Y-axis structure, which has the print bed, onto the bottom frame of the printer. To leave enough free movement for the motor, the bottom frame of the printer is hollowed out. Additionally, longer screws (M4x40) and more washers should be used to suspend the entire Y-axis structure.
Step 11: Installing the Electronics on the Frame
The control processor used in this 3D printer is the Arduino Mega development board. Drill screw holes in the frame according to the size of the board, and then secure the Arduino.
Next, install the Ramps and Pololu motor expansion interfaces on the Arduino.
Step 12: Connecting the Overall Electronic Components
The overall structure diagram of the electronic components is as follows:
Connect all the components, paying attention to the installation method and path of the wiring, ensuring that they do not interfere with the movement of the printer’s mechanical structure.
Step 13: Debugging, Calibration, and Testing
The following is a diagram of the working process of the 3D printer.
You can use CAD software to create 3D images and save them in a format (.stl) that the printer can use. Of course, you can also download .stl 3D printing files from the internet and edit them.
All programs mentioned in this project are open-source.
During the debugging phase, you can use a communication software called Printrun/Pronterface, which also includes versions for Mac OS X and Linux.
Additionally, ensure that your Arduino Mega has the controller firmware Marlin installed.
Before connecting the printer to the computer, you need to install Cura on your computer. Cura will also install the Arduino driver. After installation, connect the Arduino and the computer via USB.
Windows 8 users should note: Windows 8 may refuse to install third-party drivers like arduino.inf that do not have digital signatures. You need to disable this feature before installation.
OS X users should note: please update to the latest version of the operating system before installation. The latest system can automatically recognize the Arduino Mega and install the driver automatically, but it may recognize Arduino as a USB modem; do not worry about this.
During debugging, we need to use G-code. By manually entering specific commands, you can make the printer’s components perform different tasks. These commands can be entered in the lower right corner of the Pronterface interface. Of course, if you’re not interested in G-code, you can directly click the buttons on the Pronterface interface to perform the corresponding actions.
Most G-code commands start with M and G and must be uppercase. You can find a complete list of codes online. Here are a few examples:
·G28: All axes return to the starting position
·M106 S255: Turn on the fan
·M106 S0: Turn off the fan
·G1 X0 Y0 Z10: Move the print head to 10mm above the bed
·G1 E50 F100: Extrude 50mm of filament at a speed of 100mm/s
·M302: Cancel “extruder safety”
Next, we will introduce specific debugging and calibration methods.
Connect the Power and Check Motor Directions
Power on and first check whether the motor rotation direction is correct. If not, adjust the direction of the plugs on the Ramps board.
Ensure the Print Bed Does Not Interfere with the Heating Head’s Movement
Use the G28 command; the three motors will move to their initial positions, which will make a loud noise, so don’t be alarmed.
Check the X-axis Direction
If you click +X, the X-axis should move to the right. If the X-axis moves to the left, quickly turn off the printer power, disconnect Pronterface, and reverse the connections on the Ramps board.
Check the Y-axis Direction
Similarly, if clicking +Y makes the Y-axis move back, turn off the power, disconnect, and adjust the connections on the Ramps board.
Check the Z-axis Direction
Click +Z on 10; the Z-axis should move up 10mm. If the Z-axis moves down, make similar adjustments as above.
Check the Distance Between the Heating Head Nozzle and the Print Bed
Next, we need to adjust the height of the print bed. Move the X and Y axes to the left front corner, lowering the Z-axis as much as possible. Adjust the screws of the print bed so that the distance between the print bed and the nozzle is 0.1mm (this is the printing precision of this printer). Continue moving the X and Y axes to the other three corners of the bed, adjusting the distance between the print bed and the nozzle to 0.1mm. This distance is critical; if it is less than 0.1mm, the print will deform; if it is too great, it may not work at all. Therefore, after one adjustment, several checks should be made.
Check the Fan
Input the command M106 S255; the cooling fan for the heating head should start rotating counterclockwise and blowing air to cool the heating head. If the fan does not start, adjust the connections on the Ramps board. If the direction of the air blown by the fan is incorrect, remove the fan and install it in the other direction.
Test the Heating Head
With the fan working properly, select Heat 185 (the printing material is PLA), click Set, and observe the temperature rising to 180℃ and stabilizing, which means the heating head is functioning properly. Additionally, to improve the adhesion of PLA, consider applying a layer of glue on the PLA, and let it dry before printing.
Test the Extruder
Do not add filament yet. Use the M302 command to cancel the cooling filament extrusion protection in Marlin and set Pronterface to extrude 10mm of filament, then click Marlin (extrude). At this point, the largest gear on the extruder should start rotating clockwise. Clicking Reverse will make this gear rotate counterclockwise.
Next, load the printing filament, keeping the temperature at 185℃ (PLA), set the extruder to extrude 100mm of filament at a speed of 100 mm/min, allowing the filament to fill the tube, and continue adding filament until the molten filament starts to flow from the nozzle!
Step 14: Enjoy Your Printer
Now start using your printer! Find or design suitable 3D printing files and enjoy the printing process!
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