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The Kossel is a very cost-effective 3D printer initiated by the international 3D printing community Reprap.
It features fast speed, quiet operation, a three-arm parallel structure, strong expandability, and low cost… (omitting a thousand words)
I spent a week or two making this 3D printer, and the process was quite bumpy. Unlike those rectangular 3D printers, it is triangular. I can guarantee that this is the cheapest 3D printer domestically and internationally, costing only over 400 RMB.
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Material List:
Drive Part
1. 42 stepper motors x 4
2. GT2 timing belts x 3
3. GT2 timing pulleys x 3, 16 teeth, must fit your motors.
4. F623zz flange bearings x 6
Extrusion Part (This is the configuration of Kossel800, I used TB’s MK8 extrusion kit)
*1. 608 bearings x 1, responsible for filament feeding
*2. Filament drive wheel x 1, preferably knurled
1. Extrusion hotend 1.75mm/3mm (purchase according to your materials) + hoof fixed aluminum block
2. Cooling fan x 1 *very important
3. 3D printing materials x N
4. PTFE tube x 1
Electrical Part
1. Arduino Mega2560 x 1 board 50 RMB
2. Ramps 1.4 expansion board for Mega2560 x 1 board 20 RMB
3. A4988 stepper motor driver boards x 4 boards 6 RMB x 4
4. 12V power supply, current greater than 6A x 1
5. Limit switches (normally closed) x 3
Others
Three pieces of 60cm long wood/aluminum
Some wood
Strong magnetic effect device x 1
Pulleys x 3
Once you have everything, let’s start making it
1. Form a triangular prism with the three pieces of wood and other materials; the three pieces of wood must form an equilateral triangle. Here I used the base of a flower pot for the bottom.
Since we are making a 3D printer, all measurements must be calculated + accurately measured (caliper).
Got the power supply, not sure if it has 10A.
Mega2560 and ramps 1.4 expansion board are combined + A4988x4, using Marlin firmware, just search online for it.
2. Install the timing pulley and extrusion wheel on the motor (this extrusion wheel is different from the one I used later).
3. Install the hotend onto the effect device.
4. Next, make the pulley, and install it with the appropriate length of belt.
5. Make the parallel arms; you need to make 6 of these, no need to elaborate, just look at the pictures.
Control the error within 1MM.
6. Install the power supply and motors
7. Wiring, the wiring diagram will be shared below.
8. Install the pulleys and effectors, the belt wheels must be installed at the top of the three axes.
9. Skill: Cooling fan has been unlocked.
By the way, the fan here cannot be omitted, otherwise it is easy to block the nozzle.
10. Next, install the limit switches at the highest point of the three pulleys’ travel, ensuring all three limit switches are on the same horizontal plane. I used normally closed switches; if using normally open, modifications in the firmware are needed.
11. Skill: Extruder has been unlocked
12. To prevent the pulley from shaking and to maintain the peace of the 3D printer, I found 3 plastic cards to replace the plan in Kossel800, made the cards into sliders, and fixed them to the pulleys.
13. Finally, remember to place a glass plate at the bottom of the printing platform.
Congratulations, you have successfully built a 3D printer
Now let’s print something.
There was a problem with the extruder during printing, so some parts are incomplete.
Next, prepare to try printing this
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Links:
Firmware and modification methods
http://tieba.baidu.com/p/3231776322?pid=55686429166&cid=0&from=prin#55686429166?from=prin
Software
Arduino IDE 1.0.x
Host Software
Repetier-host (a very harmonious 3D printing host software, the key is that it is in Chinese)
Wiring Diagram
References
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling
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[Beginner Installation] Kossel800 3D Printer http://tieba.baidu.com/p/3271290174
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Dream Network K800 Crowdfunding http://www.dreamore.com/projects/14147.html
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