In 2016, I remember that only time-telling wristbands were quite popular. At that time, companies like Xiaomi, Huami, and Apple hadn’t yet ventured into the smartwatch market. I randomly bought my first DIY watch face watch from a crowdfunding site. Now, let’s take it apart and see its internal structure! Here’s a picture of the intact watch~ I would call it the first generation of DIY watch face watches.
Without tools in the dormitory, I had to go to my lab to find tools for disassembly.Since the screws on the maibu are the smallest flat-head… I couldn’t find a suitable one, so I had to modify the cheapest screwdriver bit.
I ruined a screwdriver bit!!
After getting a suitable tool, I started disassembling it.
Four screws were easy to remove, and the back cover popped off due to the charging contact pins.Be careful here; don’t pull hard. There is usually a wire connected.
Indeed, there is a vibration motor connected, which is soldered on… After disassembly, the first feeling is that it is quite empty, and there are many subtle places that can be utilized. There is a spacer fixed to the seat, which is glued to the motor. It came off slowly.
Set it aside and look at the main components. The battery and motor are both soldered to the mainboard. Before the meeting, I tried to disassemble it once, but I couldn’t remove the mainboard. I thought there might be some other mechanism blocking it. I didn’t continue disassembling and ran back right after the meeting.
So I decided to use a soldering iron to remove them all.
Of course, make sure to turn off the power first. Although it is an MCU and the program is in flash, sudden power loss shouldn’t cause any problems, but just in case. The battery was removed.
The motor was also removed. Set it aside and continue with the mainboard.
There is only one screw on the mainboard, which I decisively removed. (Later I found out that the screw seems to have other uses)
To remove the mainboard, I had to disconnect the screen’s ribbon cable.Gently pry open the ribbon cable socket with tweezers and pull it out.
After removing the main ribbon cable, don’t think you can just pull out the mainboard. If you do, you might lose the backlight later. There is still a small ribbon cable at the bottom, which is for the screen’s backlight and is soldered on… It needs to be gently unsoldered with a soldering iron.
Then prying the mainboard a bit will allow it to come out.
On the back, there is an interface whose purpose is unknown; it might be for future heart rate upgrades. Let’s take a look at the main chip on the mainboard~~ The main changes in the enhanced version are mainly in this part.
Red: Main Control NRF52832-QFAA-R 32-bit ARM® Cortex™-M4F CPU 512kB + 64kB RAM Supports low-voltage Bluetooth… Orange: Memory MX25L3206E32M-BIT CMOS SERIAL FLASH32M bits of memory, which is 4Mb, unique to the enhanced version.
Green: Accelerometer 8504 Couldn’t find information. Yellow: Barometer (the barometer is in the yellow box~)
According to the moderator’s reply, the barometer and thermometer are all in this chip. Don’t even mention the information; I couldn’t even find the model.
Then the chips on the back
Pink: SN74LVC2G07 Power-related IC Brown: The silk print is 6103 Couldn’t find the information. Guess it should be a charging management chip? Yellow-green: DW01MC-SA Lithium battery protection chip. If you’re interested, check out the brief introduction at the bottom; I won’t translate it. If you want to know more details, just Google it yourself~The red box should be the Bluetooth antenna, connected to the screw hole there. No wonder. With an all-metal body in a closed environment, how does Bluetooth transmit? It turns out it’s connected through that screw at the beginning of the article (possibly the antenna in the outer shell and the black frame of the glass) to enhance the signal.
Two close-ups of the buttons. Soldered vertically on the mainboard.
Battery close-up of the 522024 model, 210mAh battery combined with the above power control, memory LCD, low-power main control, and software algorithm optimization, allows the Maibu to achieve such standby performance.
Back cover close-up, a fairly common vibration motor, and the suction-type charging circuit board. There are some filtering circuits on top to eliminate the damage caused by contact voltage pulses to the circuit.
Next, the more controversial screen shell, it is indeed a bit heavy. But the weight varies from person to person; I feel it is quite suitable. Please note that there is a white part on the top of the picture. That is the filtering patch for the internal and external ventilation holes, and waterproofing is related to that. It can only let air in, not water. Some forum friends have worn the watch while washing hands or taking a shower, and then the air pressure doesn’t work well, right? It’s estimated that water got into this hole, unable to get in or out. So it’s better not to wear the watch while swimming or showering.
The buttons are similar to those on the watch; there should be waterproof plugs inside~
Disassembling the screen: tearing off the yellow tape fixed on both sides.
Gently pry it up from one side, and it comes off.
You can see the black edges on the screen~ This is a hard flaw, the hard flaw of the screen. Because the LCD needs power to move, the black frame contains fine lines. Only when the screen supplier solves this problem can the wide frame issue be resolved like that of smartphones.
Silk print M2852D1, I don’t know which supplier it is..
With the thickness of the shell, this display size seems to be maximized.
Finally, a family photo~
Installation section
Gently use tweezers to stick the tape back.
Put the mainboard back, screw it on. Solder the small ribbon cable and plug in the large ribbon cable.
Solder the motor and battery back on.
It took just a few minutes to finish, and I tried to power it on. Why isn’t it responding!!
Feeling the tension in my hands, I felt my mood at that moment… (400 bucks ah ah ah) I thought I had disassembled a weird one, with an internal self-destruct mechanism. My brain raced, trying to figure out what went wrong. Was it static from the soldering iron that cleared the flash? Was the power off not thorough, leaving the program dead? Unscientific… I suddenly thought, the MCU needs to be triggered to start, so I tried plugging it in… The charger is in the dormitory!! I ran back!!! I plugged in the charger!!!Put on the watch!!!
A crisp vibration… the long-lost little robot appeared… It quickly completed the boot~
The main watch face appeared~ It seems the watch is fine~~
Author: JustDo, Blogger at Breadboard Community